photography & web

The Fear of the Bears & Blisters aka solo trip to mount Assiniboine

Aug 16, 2023

Here’s the tale about my biggest adventure of the summer 2022, full of anxiety and epic views.



You can also see it in my Instagram highlights, Assiniboine I and II.

View of Sunburst peak and mount Assiniboine from Nublet

Trail stats

See map on AllTrails.

  • Destination: Magog lake camp, Mount Assiniboine Provincial Park, BC, Canada
  • Trailhead: Sunshine Village, Alberta, Canada. I was hiking out and back the same way.
  • Why I wanted to go there: well, mount Assiniboine area is known for epic views. Also I thought it would be cool to spend a few nights in the backcountry as opposed to just an overnight.
  • Was it my first time on the trail: yes.
  • Would I recommend this trail: maybe... If you're very fit and healthy. Majority of the trail is very picturesque. It’s just very looong…
  • When I went: Sept 1-5, 2022, solo.
  • Trail length (one way): 28km, so 56km roundtrip.
  • Trail elevation gain (to Magog): ~500m from looking at elevation changes on AllTrails. AllTrails says over 1000m which is not correct. I didn’t track the hike over battery concerns.
  • Trail elevation gain (to Sunshine): around 700m, with a continuous uphill of about 500m and the rest are small bumps.
  • Trail quality: narrow but very well maintained trail along all the 28km. No technical sections, gentle inclines for the most part.
  • Water sources: surprisingly, very little - lake at Howard Douglas and next one is Og (or Porcupine, but that’s a serious detour), then Magog.
  • Temperatures I had during the trip (very approximate): day 1 22°C, day 2 - 0°C - 27°C, day 3 8-29°C, day 4 8-22°C, day 5 8-18°C. 
  • Special permits needed: for sure. Og & Magog campgrounds are bookable via the BC parks system, Howard Douglas (SU8) camp - through Parks Canada. There are more campgrounds in the area though - check out the maps.
View of Magog lake and mount Assiniboine on sunrise

My hiking stats for individual days:

Day 1 (Sunshine to Og): 21km, ~400m, 9.5 hours (start 11:42am, end 9:10pm)

Day 2 (Og to Magog): 7km, ~100m, 2.5 hours (start 10:25am, end 1:00pm)

Day 2 (day hike to Nublet): 6.8km, 374m

Day 3 (day hike to Magog shore near Assiniboine lodge): 4km, minimal elevation gain.

Day 3 (day hike to Sunburst lake and back and to Niblet): 7.4km, 282m.

Day 4 (Magog to Howard Douglas SU8): 22km, ~600m, 9:45 hours (start 9am, end 5:45pm)

Day 5 (Howard Douglas to Sunshine): 6km, ~100m, 1:35 (start 9:45am, end 11:20am) 😵

Planning

I first got the idea to do the mount Assiniboine trek when I realized I have enough points for a flight Vancouver-Calgary and still didn’t have plans for the Labor Day long weekend. At first, it all seemed a bit crazy and unrealistic, but I couldn’t stop myself from researching ways to get to the trailhead and do the hike in the shortest time possible.

It seems that the recommended way to visit mount Assiniboine core area is to take a heli flight in from Mount Shark and hike back out.


At some point I was even keen to pay the ~$250 for the heli, but the problem was - I had to rent a car to get to mount Shark. Car rental for 5-6 days was about $700 for a car that would be parked 99% of the time seemed ridiculous to me. The only shuttle to this area confirmed they don’t run anymore (I emailed them), and hitchhiking, which I don’t feel comfortable to do in general, appeared to be a bad idea for a solo female traveller.


So I was left with the other option, which I think I discovered by accident when looking for accommodations for our July Rockies trip - is to hike in and out from Sunshine village, which is a ski resort near Banff.


There are shuttles to Banff the village from Calgary airport, and from Banff to Sunshine Village gondola base. Then the gondola takes you to the actual trailhead and you can save some more elevation by taking the Standish lift which turned out to be included in the gondola price (60 bucks at the time of writing).

The distance to hike sounded intimidating but doable (although looking on the AllTrails map that shows the trail to Assiniboine lodge I didn’t notice that there are another 2km to hike from the lodge to the actual campground). I took some screenshots of the map and made a scheme of hiking times. You can observe the stark difference between the estimated and actual hiking times 😏 It took me 9.5 hours to get from Sunshine to Magog instead of the planned 6 🙈


Also, on the below map 1km is missing somewhere, because Sunshine to Lodge fork is 26km... But anyway.


So my plan was as follows:

Day 0 - fly to Calgary evening after work, take a shuttle to Banff and stay there for the night.

Day 1 - get bear spray and camping stove fuel in Banff, take the shuttle to Sunshine Village gondola, ride the gondola up and hike to Og lake if I really feel like it, or to Porcupine camp, as plan B.

Day 2 - hike from Og lake to Magog campground, do the sunset hike to Nublet.

Day 3 - hike to the Wonder pass viewpoint and back.

Day 4 - hike to Porcupine campground, or if I’m really fast - to Howard Douglas (the SU8) camp.

Day 5 - hike out to Sunshine Mountain Lodge and stay there for the night.


In my plan I really wanted to reach the Og campground in the first day since Porcupine looked pretty boring, situated in the forest, while the idea of shooting sunset & sunrise on a lake sounded very appealing.

Porcupine was a plan B I could fall back into if things weren’t to go as planned.


For the way back, I was ready to settle on Porcupine so not to work myself too much. But this was at the time of planning.


The main day hike I really wanted to do was the Nublet which, as per the reviews, was a balance between the Niblet that was too low and Nub peak which was only slightly better than the Nublet. The other day hike I was keen on is the Wonder pass viewpoint which should offer Marvel lake views.


Another planning challenge was - where do I get bear spray and isobutane. To my disappointment, the outdoor stores in Banff were closed before 8am, and the shuttles to Sunshine were at 8am and 9am, which left me a bunch of wasted time, but oh well. Initially I thought about reserving the bear spray rental in advance, but then decided I’ll just pick it up somewhere.

Additional source of worry was the food - I found myself picking up random energy bars and a bunch of mini peps, not really knowing what should I have for snacks.


Another annoying thing - a few weeks before the trip I realized that the hiking boots I got in the beginning of summer cause blisters on the bottom of my feet, seemingly more than my previous boots. I felt like switching to the old boots would be a risk since they weren’t the most comfortable.

This left me with growing anxiety about getting blisters from the long distances and not being able to continue hiking at some point.


So I researched the topic and the strategies I picked up were:

- getting toe sock liners to reduce friction and wear them with regular hiking socks

- bringing a few pairs of socks and change them every couple hours so that the feet would stay drier

- bringing a serious blister kit in addition to the first aid kit I have: moleskin, KT tape, scissors. Tape feet as soon as hot spots appear.

- make frequent breaks while hiking and let my feet and boots dry

- save pics of a few boots lacing techniques to prevent the feet from slipping too much.


About a week before the trip I realized hiking both directions probably wasn’t a great idea and renting a car would only cost a little more than accommodations in Banff… But it was too late.


And for the dessert, couple days before the trip, I opened Facebook (which I never do…) and first thing I saw was a post from somebody who was bluff charged by a bear in the Assiniboine park. Which made me kinda realize it’s a much wilder place than our Garibaldi park.


Prepared for the worst and hoping for the best, I started my journey.

The trip - Day 0

The flight went fine, I was glued to the window the whole time, blown away how it’s possible to cover the distance it usually takes 2 days of driving - in one hour.


From the airport, I took the Banff Airporter shuttle, which I booked in advance (legit company, they have an office in the airport). The timing wasn’t ideal as my flight was landing at 8:30pm and the next shuttle was at 10:30pm. There was another shuttle company with departure at 10:00pm, but while I was lazy to book all the stuff, this time slot has sold out. Oh, Canada.


I checked into a private room in the HI Banff Alpine Hostel, the hostel is very cute and cozy and the room was fine. It was the cheapest I could find in Banff, and it was over $300 with tax anyway 🤦🏻‍♀️

Day 1

In the morning, I took my time to tape my feet and my right hip flexor with the KT tape. Then, since this hostel is pretty far from the downtown, I had to take a bus. Mistake #1 - I haven’t checked bus times before I set off to the bus stop - and it turned out that the bus only comes about every 30 minutes. Of course, I had to wait for about 20 minutes.


While waiting, I called the Ultimate Sports store to check if they had bear spray and isobutane - but turned out they didn’t have isobutane.


When I arrived at downtown, I started entering every souvenirs store to check for camping fuel, but no one had it. Atmosphere was opening at like 10 and I was very worried. I went to Ultimate Sports, and turned out, I didn’t hear them well and they did have isobutane. 

I bought the bear spray since it was cheaper than to rent anyway, got 2 fuel canisters, a bear spray holster to really have that thing easily accessible and went to have breakfast since I had a lot of time till the next shuttle to Sunshine.

Then waited for the shuttle at Ptarmigan Inn, but it didn’t show up. And I had to hike 21k this day…

The shuttle schedule I was looking on I have downloaded from Sunshine’s website a few weeks earlier. So I went to the website to check maybe it’s outdated, and it was 😑 And so I had to wait about 15 more minutes for the shuttle.


When I finally got to the top of mount Standish and started hiking, it already was 11:40am. I tried not to freak out and made my first sock changing stop near the Rock Isle lake, which is just beneath Standish. It was a warm day and I was sweating starting from the morning, so it was time for socks change really.


Then I hiked through the alpine meadows to Howard Douglas camp where was my second stop. Here I spent some more time, having lunch. While hiking, I met another couple and a solo hiker going the Og direction, which made me think I’m not crazy with my ambition to reach Og in one day.

I continued hiking, and started descending down the Citadel pass. It has a couple steepish sections, not major. What freaked me out a little bit is that this section lies in a forest, which means you have limited visibility, and so do the potential bears that hang out in there. It’s not the first stretch of forest on the trail, but a slightly longer one. I was singing out load and a bit anxious inside.

Also, all the folks that went in the same direction, passed me long ago and I didn’t see any more people for a while. I reached the fork with the trail leading down to Porcupine when it was 5:20pm. Despite my slow pace and the fact Og was 9 km away, I made the decision to continue in Og’s direction.


I met some guys coming from that direction and it lifted my spirits a bit, but a few minutes later I realized I do have hot spots on my feet. And then I freaked out again.


I sat down, took off my shoes, socks and the holding-not-so-well KT tape, let the feet dry a bit. Then started taping it with Moleskin and the toes that had hot spots - with Leucoplast. I think it all took me about half an hour - I had to cut shapes out of the moleskin sheet to prevent sharp corners from peeling off of my skin with constant rubbing.


I hadn’t change my decision and continued to Og.

There were no more people on the trail and many forest sections. At this point I went from singing to just shouting “Hey bear” every few seconds. I felt pretty anxious. The sun was slowly setting, I was clocking kilometers, the hot spots were still there, although didn’t seem to get worse. But anyway, I couldn’t afford to stop anymore.

I continued to hike in the dusk, and in the last 500m or so it got dark to the point I really needed to turn on the headlamp to see the trail. Thankfully, this last section was in open terrain. I spotted the food bag hanger and felt relief.


There was only like 2 vacant camping spots and no wonder - I was the last to arrive. I pitched the tent and rehydrated some curry meal. I had no appetite, but I could not afford for my body not to recover. I couldn’t finish the curry either which got me very upset because that meant I’m going to carry this weight around till the end of the trip now. 

Dinner at Og lake camp mount Assiniboine Provincial Park BC, Canada

As I changed to my camping PJs, the Moleskin bandage fell right off my feet - this thing isn’t sweat resistant at all 😑. Leucoplast held up okaish.


Anyhow, I took couple of starry sky shots sitting next to my tent and went to sleep.

Electrolytes

Ok, I wanted to pause for a sec and talk about electrolytes, but this ended up a long ramble on itself as usual 😂😂😂 so one day there will be a blog post. In short, I recommend Salt Stick capsules. They have made a very noticeable difference to how I feel, physically and mentally, while on hiking endeavors.


I kept a small jar full of them in my hip belt pocket so reaching out for electrolytes mid hiking is very easy. If I needed to take off my pack every time, I would end up consuming much less electrolytes for sure. I have also carried a stash of capsules in my food bag.


By the way, additional stuff I carry in my hip belt is sunscreen in another small jar - so no excuses to renew protection! As well as lip balm, body moisturizer, snacks, bug cream and tissues (chronic rhinitis 🙄).


You might cackle at the body moisturizer part - but my hands do dry out so quickly while out hiking that I have long ago learned to carry it with me while overnighting.

Day 2

I woke up at sunrise and saw frost on my tent and on the surrounding weeds. Not the first time I wake up to frost mid summer in the mountains (well, it was September already), but it did surprise me considering how hot it was the day before.

As usual, I was among the first ones to wake up and among the last ones to leave the camp. I shot some self portraits near the Og lake, had the remaining curry for breakfast and packed.

The 7km hike to Magog campground was fine-ish for the first 4km, then I started having pain in my hips and in my body in general, despite taking electrolytes every half an hour to an hour. I remember passing by the fork to the lodge with 2km left to the camp, feeling absolutely finished. It was morning day 2… While it was hard for me to appreciate at that moment, the trail between Og and Magog camps is really spectacular. Open views, alpine meadows. The yesterday’s stretch between Citadel pass and Og was boring in comparison.


Arriving at the camp, I started to look for a nice spot to settle, but the camp turned out like a labyrinth and it took me much longer than I wanted. Also, I missed the camp map that was right where the camp starts, so 🤷🏻‍♀️

I did find a nice spot though - relatively open, mountain views. Saw a marmot on my way and a warning about the problematic marmots in the pit toilet nearby 😂

Since my plan was to do a sunset hike, I had the whole day ahead of me. After setting up my wet from the night before tent I went to the shelter to have lunch. I was tired, anxious and moody. My feet had hot spots, although I haven’t noticed any blisters luckily.

I was thinking already about how the hell I’m going to make my way back to Sunshine village. My body already wasn’t in a great shape. I was starting to have thoughts to try and book a helicopter flight back and hitchhike to civilization instead of the hike back.

I also started having anxiety about staying at Porcupine on the way back because it’s in the woods. I was afraid I would end up alone there. Yesterday’s hike alone in the dark has really affected me.


People say I’m brave to hike alone. I am, to an extent 😅. It’s not my first time hiking in the dark in a bear territory alone. I can take some amount of fear - it’s not like I’m not afraid, but I can bear it for some time. But I also need time to recover after. Today though I wanted to watch sunset from Nublet, which was the main goal of this trip. I didn’t want to give up on that. All of this resulted in pushing myself beyond healthy limits, physically and mentally. I wouldn’t do it again like this 😬

Anyhow, with all these grim thoughts I had lunch, hanged out in the shelter for some more time, took my time for organizing stuff in the camp, and preparing for the afternoon hike.

I did want to explore the lakes nearby before heading up to Nublet, so left the camp at about 3pm.


What can I say, the lakes Sunburst and Cerulean along the trail to Nublet are absolutely spectacular! I decided to spend some time at Cerulean. I took a dip, snacked and re-taped my feet. And of course, took a bunch of self portraits.

I started movement towards Nublet at about 5pm. The trail is really beautiful through an alpine forest with gentle incline. If it wasn’t for my bear anxiety I would have more fun 🙄

After reaching the fork to Niblet the terrain turns rocky on the way to Nublet. I hiked to the Nublet peak - which was kind of a round one, and confirmed I didn’t have the desire to go further to Nub.

It was fairly windy and even a bit cold. I sat down for a snack, changing my socks and letting the feet dry as hot spots were coming back again.

Golden hour has started to kick in and I found a spot for a photoshoot. I was previously worried I’m alone again, but closer to the sunset more people showed up. It wasn’t crowded though.

The sunset itself was very picturesque, but I had to head down, as I promised myself no hiking alone in the dark today. While walking down Nublet I saw a couple taking pictures of each other. I offered to take a photo of them together and the guy named Tomas took a photo of me. We started chatting and agreed to hike down together. So I had another half an hour or so of the most beautiful light.

As much as I enjoy adventuring solo at my pace and being able to take as many photos as I want, sometimes I better off hiking with somebody else. It’s a huge mood uplifting factor when you’re not at your best. And bear fear down 90%.


I went to sleep happy, although the anxiety didn’t completely go away.

Day 3

I woke up for sunrise again and went to Magog lake, which to my surprise was a 1km away as the camp isn’t situated on Magog’s shore.

The sunrise was beautiful but smoky - probably the wind direction has changed and wildfire smoke filled the area. Overall, I liked the lakes on the way to Nublet way better than Magog. Can’t explain the feeling - Sunburst and Cerulean feel much cozier I guess.


Took a bunch of morning pictures. I was alone almost the entire time. Surprises me how little people take advantage of this quiet time.

All this time I had debated with myself whether or not to hike the Wonder pass. I was very curious to see it, but very scared my body would get too tired for tomorrow’s long hike back. Also, I went to check out the lodge and stumbled upon a sign that killed my hope for the heli ride back - it was long weekend and the next flight was Monday while I had booking at Magog till Sunday.

So I decided to accept my fate and just have “a day off” to let my body recover as much as possible. I went back to the camp, had breakfast, washed my hair with the biodegradable soap and tried to nap. I couldn’t fall asleep, but it was nice to chill and do nothing in the tent. Minus the anxiety about hiking back 🙈


After having lunch I headed to Sunburst lake for an alpine beach day. My plan was to hike up Niblet for sunset again, because this area is just so beautiful and I figured I’ll explore Niblet a bit instead of going to Nublet again.


So I dipped in the lake and hanged out there for probably a couple hours. After 4pm though it has became a bit chilly, so I decided to head back to the camp to change to dry clothes as my sports bra didn’t dry properly.

I did have to talk myself into hiking the 6km roundtrip to Niblet… Again it was kinda empty on trails and I felt anxious. I did end up going and haven’t regretted it. The scenery was amazing. Met a guy who was complaining about the sunset being smoky - it indeed wasn’t as spectacular as the day before. But we are spoiled here in western Canada haha.

The less-spectacular sunset made it easier to leave before the sun has set, although won’t lie, I still wanted to stay longer.


View of mount Assiniboine from Niblet, BC, Canada

Day 4

Unintentionally woke up for sunrise again. This time no photoshoots, just started packing as I had a very long day ahead of me. My goal was to reach the Howard Douglas camp, 21 km away from the Magog camp. My body was in mediocre shape. Resting instead of intense hikes the day before probably was a good decision.

I started movement at 9am, which is unusually early for me lol.

The hip pain from the heavy pack quickly returned. I tried to tie my fleece jacket around the hips for more cushion and it actually did work. Another issue I had with my backpack is that I got numbness in my hips from the hip belt, at every level of tightness that allows its weight to be shifted from the shoulders to the hips. Not fun. So I had to relax the hip belt every once in a while.

Stopped at the Og lake, 6.5km in. My feet already started feeling on fire. These boots really don’t breath that well ☹️ I wonder if I ever find perfect boots… Well, I had perfect boots, only in wrong size and they don’t sell them anymore sadly ooff..

Re-taped the feet. Tried adding duct tape as I heard advised on youtube 😆

The water there was absolutely stunning, calm and clear. I’m obsessed. Soaked my feet in it - I never understood people talking about soaking your feet in freezing water - until my previous backpacking trip. It’s gold!! So refreshing - it really feels like a fresh start for tired feet.

I left Og lake at 12pm and arrived at the first fork to Porcupine (the backup camping option) at 1:17pm. It was a no brainer to continue towards Howard Douglas and I took the Citadel path. At this point I was over half way through for the distance, although not for the elevation.


Took another short break or 2 before reaching the second fork to Porcupine and the beginning of the Citadel pass ascent. It was 3pm and I was pretty confident I’ll reach Howard Douglas camp that day.

I let my feet dry out again and examined the bandages. The ductape has worked! Didn’t feel any discomfort in my heels where I put it. Also the KT tape on the feet cushions and the leucoplast on the fingers held up from the previous day, which was surprising. At some point during the trip I started hiking in just the Injinji liner socks as it was way too hot for the merino wool socks. The annoying part about Injinji is that they do stink like hell 😅 spoiled by backpacking with merino socks I forgot what it’s like!

I did wash the Injinjis while in the camp the day before, which for a short time made them semi-fresh. But with merino you don’t have to bother. Merino is warmer though, so it's a trade off. Also, I couldn’t find merino toe socks 🤷🏻‍♀️

Anyhow, I was ready to tackle the elevation. The “grind” of steep-ish 250m up ended before I even noticed. From there the ups were pretty gentle.

I was passing a small lake where I planned to refill water, but figured I still have 1.5 liters of water out of the 2.5 I filled, so I skipped. By the way, water sources aren’t great at all on this trail. This tiny almost dried-out lake was the first one since Og lake. Unless you would do a detour to Porcupine.


I marched further and reached Citadel pass, which is for all I care is just a point in trail. I think it’s also a boundary between Banff national park and Assiniboine provincial park. There was a very flat large rock that looked very comfortable and I stretched out right on it. I had 2.5 km to go still. It immediately started being windy with pretty uncomfortably strong gusts, so I gathered myself from the rock and continued the journey. 

Suddenly I started feeling nauseous. This came as a surprise because I wasn’t limiting my water intake and just had a salt stick capsule at the tiny lake. I also ate nothing in the past hour or so. I continued hiking through the suffer but then decided that taking another electrolyte capsule can’t hurt too much, so I did. And like magic, the nausea went away 2 minutes later 🤷🏻‍♀️ Our bodies is a fucking mystery.


As it often happens, the last km was the worst and felt the longest. At this point my whole body was aching but I didn’t want to stop for a rest because the goal was so close. I hit the camp at 5:45pm which is almost 9 hours hiking minus the breaks.

By the time I got to Howard Douglas I was too tired to even feel happy. I set up tent and ate dinner watching some family washing dishes in the lake 🤦🏻‍♀️ guys, don’t do it, please. It’s a water source and you should dispose of dirty water away from water sources.


I had a chat with some women that passed by me while I was hiking earlier. Don’t remember what it was about, but it felt so good to talk to people after this crazy day and I gave up on trying to shoot sunset even to continue chatting.


Day 5

I didn’t sleep very well that night - my pad has deflated a bit during the night for some reason. I inflated it and this didn’t happen again, so I probably just didn’t close it well.

Woke up with the only wish to finish this trek.

That’s a pity because the scenery was pretty amazing. A very cute camp, and the trail is beautiful too. The weather though started to spoil and storm clouds rolled in. Then they rolled out 🤷🏻‍♀️

I hiked the remaining 6 km without any special events. Still no blisters, only hot spots. Not much emotions, just being tired. I was tired from this summer, the endless desire to go out and experience it. The fear of missing out on views, adventures, experiences.

I stepped into the Sunshine Mountain lodge at 11:20am, hoping for an early check in. They didn’t let me 🤦🏻‍♀️ so I went to treat myself with a burger and a beer and started uploading instagram stories.


After the check-in and the shower, guess what I did? I went to shoot sunset at the Standish platform 😂

Conclusion

Stats:

- ~70 km hiked in 5 days

- about 900m elevation total

- 0 bears seen

- about 600 pics shot

- 0 blisters gotten

- 0 sunburns too, despite the very sunny weather

- 2 lakes swam in

- 754367 hours spent being anxious about stuff

- about 10 pepperoni, 7 energy bars and a bag of crackers brought back home 😂


So what can I say… Mount Assiniboine area is aah-ma-zing! I need to go back one day.

Hiking in and out from Sunshine village? Was a bad idea for me. Should have rented a car and heli-ed at least one way. I had missed out on Wonder pass and also on plainly enjoying the trip. So much anxiety and pain - that’s not fun and I wouldn’t do this again.


Am I proud of myself - sure. Another crazy project came to life. I proved I can 🤷🏻‍♀️ But I’m past the point in my life I would do things solely to prove I can. I prefer to enjoy.


Anyway… Hope this non-glamorized story will give you a better idea of what it’s like in the Assiniboine park and help you make better and healthier choices for yourself.

 

Cheers,


Oless

Follow my journey on the instagram!

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