photography & web

Berg lake trail - lessons learned

Jul 02, 2021

Just came back from the Berg lake trail about a week ago and thought I’ll share my experience, some info that is harder to find about the trail and couple lessons learned along the way.

Trail info

  • Location: Berg lake trail, Mt Robson Provincial Park, BC, Canada
  • Elevation of the Berg lake camp: ~1660m
  • Why I wanted to go there: mainly to see the turquoise glacier-fed lakes - Kinney and Berg.
  • Was it my first time on the trail: yes.
  • Would I recommend this trail: absolutely, it’s one of the most popular trails in BC for a reason.
  • When I went: June 16-19, 2021, with a friend.
  • Trail length (roundtrip): 41.5 km (AllTrails) 
  • Trail elevation gain: ~900m on the way to Berg lake, 254 on the way back (according to my tracker), although AllTrails state it’s 1509m.
  • Trail quality: incredibly well maintained and even for the most part - until Kinney lake - really broad and even, after - still a great trail, unless it’s raining all day, then it gets extremely muddy. Completely snow free at the time of hiking. The trail itself has many viewpoints along the way, various terrain and relatively little “walk in the forest” sections.
  • Cellular coverage: no service at all in the park. I've used my Zoleo device to let my partner know I'm fine.
  • My ascent time (with overnight backpack): I was really sick, you guys (read on). Honestly, not sure how I made it. ~3 hours to Kinney lake camp on day 1, ~9 hours from Kinney lake camp to Berg lake camp on day 2.
  • My descent time: ~8 hours
  • Water sources: until Kinney lake - couple occasional access spots to the river. After Kinney lake - Whitehorn camp. Then once you start the main ascent, there’s literally no water sources until the Emperor falls, and even there not sure how possible it is to get water. So I would say - until the Emperor falls camp. And after that, next water source is near the Marmot camp. In short - make sure you fill plenty of water for the ascent between Whitehorn camp and Emperor falls camp because the elevation gain would be about 600-700m in about 5km - this is the most intensive part of the hike.
Sunrise on Berg lake, mt Robson park, BC, Canada. Turquoise lake and mountains touched with first rays of morning sun

Preparations and the way to the trail

The adventures started even before we headed to the Mt Robson park - we had to postpone or original booking due to the travel restrictions in place. I was very surprised we managed to find new spots as the trail was already fully booked for the rest of the season. So lesson number one - if you’re checking the DiscoverCamping website couple times a day every day, you’ll eventually get some spots 🙈


Since the ride to Mt Robson park from Vancouver is about 7 hours, we split it to 2 days and booked a campsite at North Thompson River park to stay for a night. That was a double mistake 😅

One - because it’s a bad idea to sleep in a tent before a trek - unless you’re sure you sleep well outdoors. Me, and my friend, too - didn’t sleep that well, so we were tired even before starting the trail.

And two - unless you really like REALLY loud trains - just don’t camp in the North Thompson River park!! Omg 🤦🏽‍♀️ We chose a campsite by the river, and the rails are literally on the other side of the river. And the trains run - I swear - every damn half an hour AT NIGHT. 


But oh, well.


We ate dinner in Clearwater, and there was another mistake from my side - I ate some fat meat - and got an annoying indigestion that night we stayed at North Thompson River. Another lesson - watch what you eat before the trek!

Day 1 on the trail

The indigestion got worse the next day - the day we were supposed to start hiking. We waited for it to go away, and though it didn’t, I insisted that we start hiking anyway.


The way to Kinney lake camp that should have been the easiest part of the trek felt like forever and took us about 3 hours with many stops and at a really slow pace.


By the time we got to the camp though I felt much better.

Couple words about the Kinney lake camp - I chose it for 2 reasons. One is that I’m a fan of vibrant lakes more than of waterfalls or other nature features (in BC, you get to choose 😁), so I couldn’t miss the chance to shoot some sunsets and sunrises on such a beautiful lake.


And two - I tried to be strategic about splitting the load of the trip - 5-hour drive to Clearwater on the first day, than 2.5-hour drive to the trailhead and a 7km easy hike - on the second.


Anyway. Kinney lake is awesome.

Dusk at Kinney lake, Mt Robson park, BC, Canada. Turquoise lake and mountains
Kinney lake side breakfast. mt Robson park, BC, Canada. Turquoise lake and mountains touched with first rays of morning sun
Tent pad with Dragonfly 2p on Kinney lake, Berg lake trail, Mt Robson park, BC, Canada

Couple words about the tent pads. When you book the sites, you are assigned specific tent pad numbers in the reservation and we wondered whether you really need to stick to that specific tent. So it turns out - you don't. The ranger told us this in the orientation - as long as you are in the campground where you have booked the site - you can choose any available tent pad.


For the tent pad size - in my photo it appears bigger than it is due to lens distortion. But I would say, you could squeeze 2 tents like mine (Nemo Dragonfly 2p) in it, if really necessary. Probably won't be able to extend the 2 vestibules thought. I saw quite a few people putting 2 tents on a tent pad, and we were also told by a ranger it's absolutely ok.

Day 2

The next day we started moving towards the Berg lake camp at about 11am and all was good… Until we stopped for a snack at Whitehorn and then the sickness hit me again.

So guys, the section between Whitehorn camp and Berg lake was the most awful hike of my life. Although it really really shouldn’t have been.

Kinney lake's delta, mt Robson park, BC, Canada. Turquoise lake and mountains touched with first rays of morning sun
Berg lake trail, mt Robson park, BC, Canada. Turquoise lake and mountains touched with first rays of morning sun
View near the Whitehorn camp, blue Berg river at mt Robson park, BC, Canada. Turquoise lake and mountains touched with first rays of morning sun
Bridge near the Whitehorn camp, mt Robson park, BC, Canada. Turquoise lake and mountains touched with first rays of morning sun

At some point in the beginning I felt I just can’t keep going. So I just sat on the ground for half an hour until I felt like I can go again. Then we needed to make few more stops. Our pace was crazy slow and I was really embarrassed.

We made it to the Berg lake camp at around 7pm and I couldn’t even get myself to go take photos of the sunset, although the weather was amazing.

Sunset on Berg lake, mt Robson park, BC, Canada. Turquoise lake and mountains touched with first rays of morning sun

But my sickness aside, what you can expect from the trail: in general, the trail is very well groomed along all the 21km. It reminded me of Elfin lakes trail or Garibaldi lake trail both in quality and in incline - there are a couple steeper sections, but for the most part, the elevation gain is really gradual and the trail is pretty even. It’s just long. On the contrary, for example, the Wedgemount lake trail is much nastier 😬 - it’s steeper and is the rocks & roots style all the way. 

That being said, be aware that if it was raining the day before, or it is raining on the day of your hike - it is going to be crazy muddy after you reach Kinney lake.

So I wouldn’t say the trail itself is really hard - it is just very long. But wouldn’t advise doing the 21k in one day unless you’re really fit.

Day 3

I woke up before the sunrise on the day 3 - feeling the sickness was gone. So I got out of the tent and oh, man! I have witnessed one of the most epic sunrise views in my life!

Sunrise on Berg lake, mt Robson park, BC, Canada. Turquoise lake and mountains touched with first rays of morning sun

Will be definitely posting more photos from this sunrise on my instagram!


Then I went back to sleep, and later in the day we went to check out the Hargreaves lake. Ummm well.

So the plan was not to do the whole Toboggan-Hargreaves loop, but just to go up from the Hargreaves side and then down the same way - since we heard that side is less steep and wanted to save our breath and do the Snowbird pass after that.


The trail to the Hargreaves lake is fine until it turns right to the Toboggan falls direction, but then we had to search for the trail to the Hargreaves lake itself and it was not obvious at all. I think the real trail might have been covered by the huge snow patch that was in the area. Anyway, we found some kind of trail that went up on a really steep slope of partly loose rock and for me - it wasn’t at all a fun experience… Especially the way down later on. So beware 🤷🏽‍♀️

The weather was overcast on that day, but we managed to catch a couple glimpses of sun while on the ridge.

Hargreaves lake, mt Robson park, BC, Canada. Turquoise lake and mountains touched with first rays of morning sun
View from Hargreaves lake trail, mt Robson park, BC, Canada. Turquoise lake and mountains touched with first rays of morning sun
Berg glacier, mt Robson park, BC, Canada. Turquoise lake and mountains touched with first rays of morning sun
Berg lake delta, mt Robson park, BC, Canada. Turquoise lake and mountains touched with first rays of morning sun

When we came back to the camp I realized I feel too weak to go on another hike. So my friend went to check out the (open section of) Snowbird pass by himself and I stayed at the camp for hot lunch and a nap 😁


The sky cleared up a bit towards the night and we had witnessed an amazing sunset.

Sunset on Berg lake, mt Robson park, BC, Canada. Turquoise lake and mountains touched with first rays of morning sun

View-wise, I am very happy with the choice to stay in the Berg lake camp over Marmot - it is really close to the lake like Marmot, but I personally think it has the best angle that showcases the enormous Berg glacier, which eliminates the need to hike in the dark for sunrise or sunset shots.

Also, we chose our camping spots on the farther side of the stream, so it was less crowded than in the main camp.

Day 4

The next day it was raining from the early morning and at this point I was really happy that I brought along a tarp. I completely forgot to take pictures of it - but it’s a simple blue poly tarp, the kind you buy for $12 at Home Depot, or even cheaper, at MEC.


I was hesitant about whether to buy one at all, this one is a bit bulky and lighter options are significantly more expensive, but ended up buying this basic blue tarp. I would say it is a bit small and was just enough to cover our sitting area between the tent pads, but it did the job well. We could stay dry and cozy during breakfast while it was raining non-stop.

Bridge on Berg lake trail, mt Robson park, BC, Canada. Turquoise lake and mountains touched with first rays of morning sun
Sunrise on Berg lake, mt Robson park, BC, Canada. Turquoise lake and mountains touched with first rays of morning sun

It was our time to head back to the Kinney lake camp where we booked the last night, we packed and started hiking. The way back was relatively without adventures, except of the really really muddy trail. We stopped at Whitehorn shelter for a snack, and had a hard time finding a place to sit - the shelter was full of people.


After arriving at Kinney lake shelter that wasn’t that crowded, first thing we did was to change to dry clothes - my top was soaked from sweat beneath the rain shell and I was starting getting cold. There I noticed that my clothes weren’t completely dry - despite the Osprey’s brand backpack rain cover and the water resistant sack they were in.


We were on a fence about staying the night at Kinney or hiking out the additional 7k to the trailhead. I was very tired and didn’t really want to hike further. But after resting for about an hour in the shelter and eating a meal I felt like I can make the additional 7k on a pretty even trail. At the same time I got more anxious about staying in the wet weather with possibly wet gear. So we ended up heading to the trailhead. Had to hop over an unruly stream that wasn’t there on day 1.


The rain - lessons learned

So there are a few lessons I have learned from that one rainy day I think are really important to share.


  • Don’t underestimate rain on a multi day hike. Weather might change unexpectedly while you’re deep into the trek and you can’t always just hike out. Wet gear can compromise your ability to stay warm and lead to hypothermia.
  • Bring a tarp on a multi day hike. For the reason above, I would ideally have a tarp to put above my tent, so the tent doesn’t get wet while assembled and disassembled. I got some water into my tent while taking it down at the Berg lake camp, which could potentially get my down sleeping bag wet - which would result in a massive heat loss since damp down loses its insulating properties.
    Your gear can get wet from hiking in the rain - it has some chance to dry if hanged under the tarp.
    Also having a tarp above the place you cook meals is really nice - if there’s no shelter in the camp, or the shelter is too crowded.
  • Have to be careful even with rain cover on the backpack - need to pay attention that water doesn’t get into the unprotected areas when taking the pack off. I have bought a pretty expensive Osprey rain cover for my backpack for this trip, after discovering that my McKinley rain cover isn’t waterproof one bit. It looks really solid and marked to be suitable for backpacks up to 70 liter - and fits just right on my fully loaded Osprey Aura 65 backpack. It even covers well the overhead compartment and the bottom of the pack.
    The problem is that I was taking the backpack off quite a few times during the hike back to Kinney lake - to take out my camera for photos, and most of these times I would just drop the pack wherever I stopped, not caring about its position. It may be that during these stops (mainly very short, but still), the rain would fall onto the back of the pack that wasn’t protected by the rain cover and its back wall probably got soaked this way - especially the bottom part, where the sleeping bag and the sack with dry clothes were.

    The clothes sack and some clothes inside were dump when I took them out at the Kinney shelter.
    For the compression sack that had my pillow and sleeping bag - I have only opened it a day later at home. My pillow, that was close to the orange breathing panel of the compression sack, was dump, too. The sleeping bag appeared to be dry though. That’s a disappointment considering this
    Sea-To-Summit compression sack is marketed as waterproof. I might need to test it at home separately to drive conclusions though.

    UPDATE: I've tested the sack in shower by putting a dry towel inside and pouring water on the sack for a few minutes. The towel came was dry inside... So it seems to work.

Anyhow, that trip definitely was much more of a challenge than I have expected due to my sickness, but Berg lake trail is incredibly amazing and I’m so grateful I could manage it despite feeling unwell.


I hope you will find my story useful and learn something so you have more enjoyable, safer trips in the future!


Let me know what you think and any questions in the comments below!


Cheers,

Oless

Follow my journey on the instagram!

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